Lalla Shafia, in English, 'Our Lady the Healer' is a Moroccan saint whose tomb lies at the top of a hill opposite the small bath town of Moulay Yaqoub, just outside of Fes. There are many stories as to her life and death, but many hold that she was the daughter of Moulay Yaqoub (Saint Jacob) who is the name-sake of the town. The thermal baths in Moulay Yaqoub are frequented by many with illnesses, particularly skin complaints, and this visit is often accompanied by a trip up the hill to the tomb.
In the early afternoon we climbed the hill up to the tomb, with just a few people around, it was a meditative experience. As we ascended, I noticed a number of healing plants on the dusty slopes, including chamomile and plantain. In fact, Moulay Yaqoub is in itself an experience where all the aspects of traditional moroccan healthcare are synthesised. With the thermal baths, herbs, and saintly tombs, you are faced with the physical manifestation of the entirety of the tradition. Saintly healing in Morocco has always been a natural accompaniment to other healing practices, including healing using herbs, body work and diet.
When we reached the top of the hill it was a great relief to be on flat ground again, but we were rewarded ten-fold for our efforts with the incredible view out onto the rolling green hills that stretched towards the horizon. Most people visit Lalla Shafia after Asr (the afternoon prayer) so for an hour or two, we were able to rest in silence under a wild olive tree, our only company being two silent shepherds grazing a flock of sheep and goats gradually across the hills.
The tomb itself is not in excellent shape, although it is clearly well-loved and clean. There was a certain presence around it, and this was helped by its incredible vantage point and lonely situation - certainly its geography might contribute to the feeling of solace that anyone sick and hurting might experience here. Its bare essentiality was comforting to me, and it was with great reluctance that we eventually descended the hill after Asr, knowing that this spot would always be here to provide solace not only to us, but to all both near and far.
Others have written about their experiences with Lalla Shafia, including at Sirajunmunira: https://sirajunmunira.wordpress.com/2015/12/19/lalla-chafia/
